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| Civitavecchia at Sunset |
Today is our last day in port in Civitavecchia. Before you ask, yes, I took a train to Rome though I visited not a
single well known monument choosing instead to meander around a lesser known part of the city called
Trastevere. Here I encountered a giant
hill made entirely of discarded terra cotta olive jars, a church with a
beautiful black Madonna, the spot of Garibaldi’s
battle for Rome against the French and the tomb of those who died in the battle,
heard monks singing and ate one of the best sandwiches I’ve ever had.
I spent far more time in Civitavecchia where our ship is
docked. Civitavecchia is city well worth visiting for its own
sake. I strolled along the seaside where
I watched the sun set and took in an exhibit on Roman ship building. I ate a lot of delicious food, drank some
tasty wine and heard one of the more interesting cover bands I’ve had the
pleasure of encountering.
One of the highlights was stumbling upon a tiny church in
the old city known as The Church of the Star which is dedicated to Santa Maria
delle Grazie (Saint Mary of the Graces).
It did not appear on any map and in fact I was actually looking for
another church, Santa Mariadell’Orazione e Morte (Saint Mary of the Prayer and Death), which actually
turned out to be closed. Though
disappointed I continued to wander my way through Civitavecchia’s old city, a
delight all on its own if you are here and have the time. I soon found myself in a small piazza with a
fountain and several cafes.
Tucked in the corner was stucco covered building with a
plain front. A single star hung high
over the door. My instincts told me that
despite its plain appearance this building was something special. I noted a sign the left of the door and
approached it. It explained that the
church was
was founded by the Archonfraternity of Gonfalone in 1688.
Intrigued I stepped through the door.
Upon entering a short, older Italian woman appeared. We soon discovered we did not speak each
other’s language but she ushered me into the sanctuary with the motions of her
hands. I turned and stood to take it all
in.
I could describe in detail to you all that I saw in this
hidden sanctuary – the colorful paintings of Ennio Galice or the beautifully carved
wooden statue of St. Mary and child – but those are things that you can see in
the included photo or in person should you decide to make the trip. Instead I will tell you of the stillness of
the air and the sense of peace that permeated this small chapel. I will tell you how I sat for several minutes
just breathing in the quietness as though I could fill myself with it and tuck
some silence away for later. Unlike the
other larger churches, cathedrals and basilicas that I had visited no one else
entered while I sat in this place of meditation.
Anytime that I have
travelled these are the sorts of moments that always remain with me. One can journey to a faraway place and follow
the guidance of the tourist maps which will lead you to each well-loved
monument and landmark, and one should as the places are famous for a reason, but
be sure to allow yourself the time to wander, to make room for the unexpected
pleasures that come from an unplanned meander.
This is where the treasures are.
__________
In other news we received the news yesterday that we will
not be visiting Istanbul, Turkey due to the Syrian crisis. Instead we will be spending that time in
Dobrovnik, Croatia, also an interesting destination. While I am disappointed that we are not
visiting Turkey I am looking forward to seeing what unexpected joys are to be
found in Dubrovnik. Between now and then
we have short stop in Naples and two days of classes.
